jewelry-jewellery -silver sterling jewelry jewellery gold jewelry jeweller riyo gems india

American and British English spelling differences

British jewellery; American jewelry. According to Fowler, jewelry used to be the "rhetorical and poetic" spelling in the UK. Canada has both. Likewise, Commonwealth (including Canada) has jeweller and U.S. has jeweler for a jewel(le)ry retailer. Jewellery (also spelled jewelry, see spelling differences) is a personal ornament, such as a necklace, ring, or bracelet, made from jewels, precious metals or other substance. The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicised from the Old French "jouel" in around the 13th century.[1] Further tracing leads back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything. Jewellery is one of the oldest forms of body adornment; recently found 100,000 year-old Nassarius shells that were made into beads are thought to be the oldest known jewellery

Although in earlier times jewellery was created for more practical uses, such as wealth storage and pinning clothes together, in recent times it has been used almost exclusively for decoration. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials, such as bone, animal teeth, shell, wood, and carved stone. Jewellery was often made for people of high importance to show their status and, in many cases, they were buried with it. Jewellery is made out of almost every material known and has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to toe rings and many more types of jewellery. While high-quality and artistic pieces are made with gemstones and precious metals, less-costly costume jewellery is made from less-valuable materials and is mass-produced. New variations include wire sculpture (wrap) jewellery, using anything from base metal wire with rock tumbled stone to precious metals and precious gemstones

. In Many part of the world some people call it Jewellery some part call it Jewelry.

Alloy Alloy is a metallurgical term that refers to a mixture of two or more metals. Most metals used in jewellery are alloyed together, either to alter the metal's color, or to give it greater strength. Baguettes Baguettes are small, rectangular-shaped stones with facets. Band A band is simply a ring that is the same width all the way around. Bangle A bangle is a stiff bracelet that slips over the hand or is clasped on. Bead A bead is a stone cut into a small sphere shape. Beveled Beveled is the name given to an angled part or surface. This is usually an angle other than a right angle. Bezel A bezel is any part that incorporates a continuous groove to fit something, generally a stone. The metal at the top of the groove is then burnished over the edge of the mounted item to hold it, forming a setting. Birthstones Each month has a particular gemstone associated with it, called a birthstone. Brilliant cut A cutting style in diamonds that creates a round stone having 57 or 58 facets that are mathematically devised to produce the greatest brilliance.

Also called a full cut. Brooch A brooch is an ornamental piece of jewellery with a pin and clasp that allows it to be attached to clothing. Cable Chain A style of chain whose links are round and uniform in size. Cabochon A domed gemstone with a highly polished, curved surface and no faceting. Seen often in rings. Carat Carat is a unit of weight for gemstones. 100 points equal one Carat. One Carat equals one-fifth of a gram. This term is often confused with karat, which is a measure of the purity of gold. Chain A chain is a series of connected loops, links, rings, or beads used to create bracelets or necklaces. Channel Setting In a channel setting, two strips of metal (gold, platinum or silver) hold the gemstone(s) in place at the sides, with no metal between the stones. This type of setting protects the girdle area of the gemstone, as well as securing small stones more effectively than a prong setting. Channel-set gemstones also sit flush with the mounting, making them less likely to get snagged on other objects, such as hair or clothing. Charm A charm is a decorative pendant or trinket worn on a bracelet, necklace or earring. Clasp Any type of attachment that connects two ends of a piece of jewellery. Clip-Back or Clip-On Earrings designed for non-pierced ears.

Works like a hinge to secure the earring to the earlobe. Comfort Back A rubber or plastic pad that goes over the clip of a clip earring to cushion the earlobe. Cultured Pearl Created through a painstaking process of mimicking the natural pearl process in live mollusks. A pearl is formed as a result of implanting a piece of mantle from a mollusk into another host mollusk. Dangle (or Drop) Earrings Any earring that hangs below the earlobe. Diamond-Cut A process where angled cuts are made into gold, giving it a unique appearance.. Diamond-Cut Rope A style of chain in which a portion of the chain is cut away at an angle, then polished to a high shine. Earring Back An earring back is a disk or bead that fits over an earring post to hold the earring securely in place. Earring Jacket An earring jacket is an accessory designed to be worn with a stud as a decorative backdrop. Electroplating The process of covering a base metal with a thin film of gold. The base metal is set in a chemical solution which, as an electric current flows through it, coats it with precious metal. Embossed A mechanical process done under considerable heat and pressure that permanently imprints a variety of unique grain effects into a surface. Emerald Cut A type of cutting style that is usually rectangular, but sometimes square, with rows of step cuts along the edges and at the corners. Step cuts are often found in diamonds. Enamel Coloring Enamel coloring is opaque, glassy material that is fused onto metal, pottery or glass.

Facet A facet is the flat, polished plane that is cut into the surface of a stone, helping to enhance its reflection of light. Filigree Filigree is the name given to the lace-like ornamental work made from intricately arranged, intertwined wires. Finding Findings are the parts that jewelers use in making jewellery. They can include clasps, hooks, pin backs and earring backs. Freshwater Pearl An irregularly shaped pearl that has been formed by a mussel living in a lake or river. Genuine Pearl Pearls are the result of an incredible natural process that occurs within an oyster's shell. The process begins with some kind of irritant (perhaps a grain of sand or small parasite) being introduced into the oyster's shell. In response to the invasion, the oyster coats the object with nacre, a smooth, crystalline substance that surrounds the object and forms layers to protect the oyster's inner tissue (called the mantle) from further irritation.

The result of this process is the beautifully luminescent gem we know as a pearl Gold-Filled Gold-filled jewellery is made by joining or bonding (under heat and pressure) layers of a karat gold to a base metal. This "sandwich" is then rolled or drawn to the desired thickness. Gold Finish A type finish that gives jewellery the appearance of gold. Gold-Plated Gold-plated jewellery is made by bonding 10-karat or better gold to a base metal. The karat gold content may be less than 1/20, but must be properly identified as a percentage of the total content. Green Gold Green gold is an alloy of gold, silver, zinc and often cadmium. High Polish A surface that is polished to a mirror-like finish. Hoop Earring A hoop earring is a circular earring made from metal wire or tubing. Variations include the traditional shape as well as hoops with charms and other ornaments hung from the hoop. Ingot An ingot is a metal bar or other shape that is used in jewellery making. Karat or Karatage Karatage is an expression of the measurement of gold purity (since gold is in fact a mixture of gold and other metals).

Pure gold is 24-Karat (24K), 18-Karat gold is 75% pure, etc. Links Series of loops that make up a chain. Marquise Marquise is a shape into which diamonds and other gemstones are cut. It is an oval with tapered, pointed ends. Matte In jewellery, matte refers to any non-shiny, frosted surface. Mesh or Mesh Style A chain that is fabric-like and woven of fine wire. Pavé Setting In pavé setting, gemstones are fit into small holes and set almost level with the surface of the ring. They are set in rows, with no metal between them, giving the appearance of the gemstones having been paved (Pavé is French for paved), like a cobblestone road. Pendant A pendant is an ornament suspended from a single chain. Pierced Earrings Earrings designed for wear in ears that are pierced. A wire or post is inserted through the ear lobe. Clip-Back Earrings are designed for use in ears that are not pierced.

Point Each carat in a diamond's weight is divided into 100 parts, called "points." A 1-Carat diamond has 100 points, a ¾ Carat has 75 points, etc. Points in a fraction of one carat are measured within ranges, so that a ¾ Carat diamond may have between .69 and .82 points and still be considered a ¾ carat. Polish Polishing is a process used to make metal smooth and glossy. It also increases shine and eliminates flaws. Post A post is a pin-like finding attached to an earring. It passes through the pierced earlobe, and may be held in place by a back. Precious Stones Precious stones are rare and costly gems such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Princess Cut A princess cut is a style in which diamonds and other gems are cut that is square or rectangular in shape. Princess-cut stones can have between 57 and 70 facets and varying proportions. Prong A prong is one of several claw-like wires that is used to hold a stone in place.

The most common number of prongs is four or six, although the number can vary depending on the shape of the stone they are securing. Quartz Quartz is a crystalline mineral used for gems, that includes amethyst and rock crystal. It is available in a variety of colors. Radiant Cut Radiant refers to a cutting style in which diamonds and other gems are into a square or rectangle that has clipped-off corners. A radiant cut is similar to an Emerald Cut. Rhodium Rhodium is a white, metallic element. A Rhodium finish is usually applied to gold jewellery to give the effect of white gold. Ring A ring is a piece of jewellery that is usually worn on the fingers (sometimes toes) and slides on and off. Ring Guard A ring that's worn above another ring to keep it from slipping off the finger. Rope Chain A rope chain is a style of chain with a spiral appearance that gives the effect of two thick strands that have been woven together. Rose Gold Rose gold is the name given to an alloy of gold and copper. Satin Finish Satin is a type of matte finish made by sandblasting, brushing with a stiff wire brush or chemically altering a shiny metallic surface. A satin finish has a soft, pearl-like luster instead of a bright polish. Screw-Back A screw-back is a vise-like clamp that holds a non-pierced earring on the ear by a screw that can be tightened against the earlobe. Semi-Precious Stones Semi-precious stones are naturally occuring stones that include amethyst, aventurine, carnelian, garnet, opal and rose quartzes. 14 Karat This gold is 14 parts of gold to 10 parts other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc.

The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. This level of purity in Gold is quite common in the West, a lot of the jewellery produced there is of this karatage. 18 Karat (18k) gold is 18 parts of gold to 6 parts other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 18 Karat gold is the most widely used gold to produce studded jewellery. This is so because 22 karat is too soft to set any stones. 22 Karat (22k) gold is 22 parts of gold to 2 parts of other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 22 karat is most widely used in India to make gold jewellery. 24 Karat (24k) gold is pure gold containing no other metals. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 24 karat is the purest karatage of Gold. Coins and other Bullion is usually of this karatage Noun 1. jewelry - an adornment (as a bracelet or ring or necklace) made of precious metals and set with gems (or imitation gems) jewellery adornment - a decoration of color or interest that is added to relieve plainness bead - a small ball with a hole through the middle bijou - a small and delicately worked piece bling, bling bling - flashy, ostentatious jewelry; "the rapper was loaded with bling" bangle, bracelet - jewelry worn around the wrist for decoration clip - an article of jewelry that can be clipped onto a hat or dress cufflink - jewelry consisting of one of a pair of linked buttons used to fasten the cuffs of a shirt earring - jewelry to ornament the ear; usually clipped to the earlobe or fastened through a hole in the lobe jewel, precious stone, gem - a precious or semiprecious stone incorporated into a piece of jewelry necklace - jewelry consisting of a cord or chain (often bearing gems) worn about the neck as an ornament (especially by women) pin - a piece of jewelry that is pinned onto the wearer's garment ring, band - jewelry consisting of a circlet of precious metal (often set with jewels) worn on the finger; "she had rings on every finger"; "he noted that she wore a wedding band" tie clip - a piece of jewelry that holds a man's tie in place gemstone, gem, stone - a crystalline rock that can be cut and polished for jewelry; "he had the gem set in a ring for his wife"; "she had jewels made of all the rarest stones" ALPACA Often confused with silver, often made in Mexico, made of mostly copper with nickel, zinc and tin ART DECO A jewelry style originated in Paris, France and popular from about 1915 until 1925.

This style has distinct geometric lines and angles, lacking in rounded edges and curves ART NOUVEAU A jewelry style popular around the turn of the 19th century exemplified by curves, women with flowing hair and enameled pieces. ASTERISM A "star" or pattern of rays, typically six rays, crossing in a single spot on a cabochon cut gemstone when viewed under a single source of light. Star Sapphire is one of the best known examples of a gemstone that exhibits the phenomenon known as an asterism. ANNIVERSARY BAND Typically given for wedding anniversaries, a ring set with one or more rows of gems, usually Diamonds. The diamonds may go completely, three quarters or half way around the finger. Any anniversary is appropriate for giving this ring, however, recently the Diamond anniversary band has been promoted in major advertising campaigns as the perfect gift for the tenth wedding anniversary. An anniversary band can be used in addition to, or instead of a traditional wedding ring. ASCHER CUT A square "step cut stone, similar to an Emerald Cut but square with cut corners making 8 edges around the girdle. BAGUETTE A small rectangular shaped gemstone. A term derived from the French, meaning long and thin as in baguette breads. Baguettes are step cuts, similar to Emerald cuts, but generally small in size. Tapered baguettes are also common in jewelry, where the short sides are not even in length causing the two long sides to taper towards the shorter end. BANGLE A stiff bracelet that slides over the hand to put it on. . A "flexible bangle" is one which opens flat and is stiff when closed. Bangles may be completely solid or open at the ends which pass each other creating a cuff style bracelet also sometimes called a bangle. This style bracelet often twists on from the side of the wrist. It is very common to see people wearing several bangle bracelets together. BAROQUE PEARL The term baroque describes the shape of a pearl. An out of round, irregularly shaped pearl is said to be baroque.

BASE METAL Any non-precious metal other than the "Noble Metals": which are Gold, Silver, and the Platinum group metals. Copper, Nickel, Bronze, Brass, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Lead and combinations of these are base metals often used in the manufacturing of fashion jewelry. BEAD SETTING A method of setting stones even with the surface of a metal by raising beads from the metal itself. The beads act as prongs to secure the stones. BELCHER A claw style ring mounting, common in rings for men. The mounting is one piece with the prongs being part of the shank. BERYL A gem species. Green Beryl is more commonly known as Emerald. Emeralds blue or blue-green sister in the Beryl family is Aquamarine. Pink Beryl is Morganite.

BEZEL SETTING A gold tube like setting into which a gemstone is set. Bezel setting is also the art of setting gemstones in a bezel. The outer rim of a bezel is burnished, or bent over and smoothed out around the girdle of a gemstone. A bezel setting is an extremely secure one, however the outer edge of the gemstone is completely covered making the diameter of the gemstone appear slightly smaller. Sometimes, a white gold bezel can actually make a Diamond look larger because the color of the metal blends with the Diamond and the exterior diameter of the bezel appears to be the edge of the Diamond. BRILLIANT CUT A round shaped gemstone with 58 facets also known as a full cut.. A round, full cut Diamond is correctly called a Brilliant Cut. The term refers to the shape of the gemstone, not quality or actual brilliance. There are 16 upper girdle facets, 8 Star facets, 8 Bezel facets, and a table facet above the girdle. Below the girdle there are 16 lower girdle facets 8 pavilion facets and a culet. (see Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut). BRIDAL JEWELRY A general term used to describe the category of wedding rings, engagement rings, gifts for the bride or groom and gifts for the best man, maid of honor, ushers, bridesmaids and others taking part in the wedding ceremony. BROOCH A pin that is worn on clothing that is generally large in size. The term pin refers to smaller pieces of jewelry worn on clothes. BURNISHED SETTING A method of setting in which the diamond is set flush with the surface of the metal, it is similar to a bezel setting, but the host metal is used to create the bezel. BUTTERCUP A six-prong setting, with tall prongs, resembling a flower. The setting is scalloped in design. CABOCHON A gemstone that is a polished domed shape on the top and flat on the bottom. Opaque gems such as Onyx, and translucent stones such as Sapphires that will display an asterism (known as Star Sapphire) are typically cut as cabochons. CAMEO A shell or other gemstone that is carved in relief. When the material to be carved is composed of two different colored layers, a raised design in one color will contrast against a different colored background. CARAT A very accurate unit of weight used for gemstones. The word Carat is derived from the Carob seed, which was used in the days of antiquity as counterweights on scales for small measurements because Carob seeds were extremely similar in weight. A Carat is equal to 1/5th of a gram, or (200) milligrams, and there are about 140 Carats in 1 ounce. The word Karat, which is used to describe the content of fine gold in an alloy is often confused with Carat, the unit of weight. CARBON A Diamond is composed of pure Carbon. Carbon, when subjected to tremendous amounts of heat and pressure, crystallizes.

Many Diamonds do not completely crystallize. As a Diamond crystal forms, some Carbon may not be crystallized resulting in birthmarks known as inclusions. Inclusions aid jewelers in identifying Diamonds and make every Diamond unique. The best way to identify your Diamond is know what its inclusions look like, unless of course you are fortunate enough to own a flawless Diamond which has perfect crystal structure and no inclusions. CASTING A process used to manufacture jewelry. Molten metal is poured into a mold and allowed to cool resulting in raw piece of metal, also called a casting, which has taken the shape of the design in the mold. Items can be cast one at a time or in very large quantities with specialized manufacturing techniques. CHANNEL SETTING The art of setting gemstones in a channel, which is two walls of metal between which a gem is set so it appears suspended in a groove. Channel setting is generally used for small stones of similar size, but graduated gemstones can also be channel set in this manner. A piece of jewelry with a groove for stones to be set in is also referred to as a channel setting. CHASING A very decorative engraving with intricate detail performed by a highly skilled craftsmen. CHÂTON SETTING A form of prong setting with many small prongs around entire gemstone CHATOYANCY A phenomenon caused by reflections from parallel needle like inclusions in a cabochon such as cat's-eye gemstone. Chatoyancy can be seen in some flat gemstones but a cabochon cut enhances the effect. CIRCA Approximately. Used as a description for approximate date of manufacture. An antique item may be described as Circa 1920 to describe its age or the approximate period which it's design would be associated with. CLARITY The amount or absence of inclusions or other imperfections within a gemstone determines its clarity. A Clarity grade can be assigned to a gemstone based on the amount of imperfections, their size, relief (contrast and appearance), and location within a gemstone. Clarity is one of the 4Cs used to grade Diamonds in the G.I.A. system of Diamond grading.. CLARITY GRADE A category used to describe the amount or absence of inclusions within a Diamond or other gemstone. The G.I.A. Diamond clarity grading scale consists of eleven clarity grades. They are, in order of decreasing quality: FL (Flawless), IF (Internally Flawless), VVS1 and VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included), VS1 and VS2 (Very Slightly Included), SI1 and SI2 (Slightly Included), I1 and I2 and I3 (Imperfect). Within the jewelry industry the clarity grade SI3 is used because the I1 and SI2 clarity grades encompass a vast range of qualities within their grades which can not be priced similarly based on the clarity grade alone.

The Diamond Council and many Gem Laboratories use the SI3 grade. G.I.A., who has created the grading system however, has not acknowledged the SI3 grade to date. CLASP A lock or closure used to fasten a necklace, bracelet, etc. that makes it easy to put on or take off a piece of jewelry and is designed to prevent loss. Typical clasps are a Lobster Claw, Barrel Lock, Pearl Clasp, or Spring Ring. Clasps may be hidden or a featured part of an items design such as a toggle clasp, which is worn in the front, and is used on many necklaces and bracelets CLASS RING A ring worn by graduates of high school or college depicting the school attended, graduation year, school insignia, school affiliations to teams etc and/or gemstone for the school or birth month. CLAW SETTING A type of prong setting (claws) which suspends a stone in an open mounting, allowing for the most light to enter from the sides of the ring CLOISONNÉ A type of enamel used in jewelry manufacturing. A design is made on metal and small carved out areas called cells or cloisons are filled with enamel and heated in a kiln or oven. CLOSED BACK SETTING when a stone is set with no hole in the metal below it to allow light. Unless a gemstone is set in a tight bezel, cleaning under stones set this way is difficult. This type of setting is common used in the manufacturing of school rings. CLUTCH An earring back, also called a push back which uses friction to secure itself against an earring post and hold an earring against the ear CLUSTER RING A ring set with many gemstones. The gemstones may be of similar or different colors or sizes. COCKTAIL RING A type of cluster ring, generally more elaborate. An eye catching ring such as one you might wear to a cocktail party. COIN SILVER An alloy of 90% silver and 10% copper. Most United states silver coins are made of coin silver. COLLAR BAR A bar worn beneath a tie, attached to the collar of a shirt. COLOR GRADE A category used to describe the amount or absence of color, typically yellow, within a Diamond or other gemstone. A color grade describes the body color of a Diamond and not the colors that can be seen coming from a Diamond.

The G.I.A. Diamond color grading scale consists of twenty three grades represented by the letters of the alphabet beginning with the letter D and subcategorized as follows: COLORLESS (D,E,F), NEAR COLORLESS (G,H,I,J), FAINT YELLOW (K,L,M), VERY LIGHT YELLOW (N,O,P,Q,R), LIGHT YELLOW (S,T,U,V,W,X,Y,Z) COLORED STONES All gemstones other than Diamonds, or colored Diamonds. CORUNDUM A gem species that is found in many colors. Red Corundum is called Ruby and all other varieties are called Sapphire. Blue Sapphire is best known, however Pink Sapphire, Green Sapphire, and Yellow Sapphire are also relatively popular. COSTUME JEWELRY Any jewelry made from materials other than the noble metals (gold, silver & platinum). Costume jewelry can also be very expensive, especially when associated with a designers name. Costume jewelry is usually trendy, in fashion, and often much bolder in shapes, materials, and size because of lower material costs. CT. Common abbreviation for Carat CTTW. Common abbreviation for total carat weight when more than one gemstone is present. Also may be CTW. CUBIC ZIRCONIA A man-made material, created in 1977, usually facetted so it will be similar in appearance to a Diamond. Very inexpensive. CUFF BRACELET A type of bangle bracelet that does not meet and is put on from the side of the wrist instead of being slipped over the hand. Some styles of cuff bracelets can be worn above the elbow CUFF LINK A piece of jewelry usually designed with a post and hinge that goes through the two button holes on a shirt (French cuffs - without buttons) and the hinge opens to create a "T" that secures the shirt cuff. CULTURED PEARL A genuine pearl formed within a mollusk such as an Oyster. In a cultured Pearl, a bead known as a nucleus is inserted into a mollusk to start the process that creates a Pearl, and in nature a grain of sand or some other irritant that enters a mollusk starts the process that results in a natural Pearl. Layers of "nacre" are secreted by the mollusk as a natural reaction to a foreign body and are built up layer after layer. The length of time a pearl is allowed to grow and/or the size of the nucleus will determine the size of the Pearl that will be harvested. Cultured pearls are cultivated on farms in fresh water or saltwater. CURB-CHAIN A flat link chain with rounded edges also called a service chain because it was used by many serviceman for religious medals and other jewelry CUSTOM DESIGN Any jewelry made to order. CUSHION CUT An emerald cut or square cut gemstone with rounded edges. Cushion cut stones are found in many antique style pieces of jewelry. DEMI-PARURE A matching set of earrings, necklace and pin, a PARURE usually includes a bracelet. DIAMOND CUT Small scallop like bright cuts in metal created with a diamond cutting tool that create the illusion of Diamonds being set into the metal.. DIAMOND GRADE A value used in a Diamond grading system to categorize the color or clarity of a Diamond, (See Color Grade or Clarity Grade). The Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) developed a system that is the most respected, and is the standard used by most jewelers DIE CASTING A method of casting where the metal to be cast is forced under pressure into a mold, usually made of metal.. DIE STRUCK

A manufacturing process employing machinery that applies great pressure to metal against a die or between two dies. The high pressures creates a denser product than the casting method of manufacturing and can be used to create large quantities of identical items with great precision and fine detail. DISPERSION: The splitting of white light into the colors of the rainbow. DOUBLET A stone made of two pieces. Any natural or synthetic materials may be used in any combination. Usually the lower half of the stone is synthetic, glass or composite and a more valuable gemstone is used for the top. EDWARDIAN A style of jewelry from the turn of the nineteenth century until 1910 exemplified by delicate filigree designs featuring bows and ornate detailed filigree work. Also known as the Edwardian Period or Era. ELECTROFORMING A jewelry manufacturing process, similar to electroplating, that creates a lightweight layer of gold or silver over a wax model which is then melted out of the finished piece. ELECTROPLATING The Process of placing a thin layer of metal upon another metal by suspending an item to be plated in a solution containing the plating material. An electric current is then applied to the solution causing the negatively charged plating material to adhere to the positively charged item being plated. The amount of time used in the process determines the thickness of the plating. EMBOSS To apply a finish from the back of a material which creates a raised design on the surface of a material. EMERALD CUT A rectangular shaped gemstone.

A style of faceting that creates a rectangular gemstone, usually with cut corners to prevent chipping. The pavilion facets run parallel to the girdle, in steps and is also known as a step cut.. ENAMEL Glass or similar material fused to the surface of metal ENGRAVING A process of etching a design, initials, family crest or anything else into the surface of metal. The traditional method of hand-engraving is becoming less common as it is replaced by sophisticated computerized techniques. An experienced and skillful hand engraver is difficult to find these days. ESTATE JEWELRY Any previously-owned jewelry offered for sale again. Also describes jewelry purchases from the estate of someone who is deceased. All antique jewelry which is resold is estate jewelry, however all estate jewelry is not necessarily antique. ETCHING A process similar to engraving in which acid is used to etch a design into the surface of metal, glass or gemstones. Wax is often used to protect areas that are not intended to be etched. ETERNITY RING A ring set with gemstones that go all the way around, having no beginning or end (eternity) FACETING The process of applying facets, or flat polished surfaces to a gemstone. The goal of a gem cutter, who creates the facet arrangement on a gemstone, is to create the most brilliance and best appearance possible for the gem in hand. When faceting colored gemstones particular attention must be given to how light reflection will affect the gemstones apparent color. FACE UP Describes the viewing position of a gem as seen when looking at it perpendicular to the table facet. A gemstone that faces up well is excellent in appearance in relation to its color or clarity grades. FANCY COLOR DIAMOND A Diamond that exhibits a strong color, such as yellow, as opposed to an off colored white Diamond. Fancy colored Diamonds can be very expensive and are often highly prized by collectors. Fancy colored Diamonds have been found in many colors of the spectrum. FANCY CUT A gemstone cut into a shape other than round. Fancy cuts include princess, pear, marquise, oval, baguette, emerald, heart and less common but very unique shapes such as stars.

FAMILY RING A ring set with the birthstones of children, grandchildren, or other family members. A mothers ring is one type of family ring. FAUX A copy, fake, synthetic used as an imitation FILIGREE An openwork, pierced design, generally delicate in nature and fine in construction. FINDING Jewelry parts, such as clasps, settings and others used in the manufacturing or repair of jewelry. FLORENTINE FINISH A finish applied to metal, usually applied by hand, consisting of a series of parallel lines engraved in two directions perpendicular to each other. FOUR C'S An abbreviation used to describe the Color, Clarity, Carat and Cut of a gemstone as defined by the G.I.A. which created a Diamond grading system using the 4Cs. FRESH WATER PEARL A pearl which is harvested from a fresh water mollusk as opposed to one from salt water. Chinese fresh water pearls are growing in popularity as their production in rivers and lakes has expanded in recent years. Biwa Pearls, a name which is often incorrectly used for many types of pearls, are a type of fresh water pearls which specifically come from Lake Biwa in Japan. FRICTION BACK An earring back, also called a push back which uses friction to secure itself against an earring post and hold an earring against the ear. GERMAN SILVER Invented in Germany. Actually does not contain any silver, made of mostly copper with nickel and zinc G.I.A.. The Gemological Institute of America. G.I.A. is a highly respected, not for profit organization, devoted to the promotion of education and ethics within the jewelry industry. G.I.A. also has a laboratory used to grade and identify gemstones. GOLD An element, whose symbol is AU on the atomic charts and has characteristics that make it highly suitable for use in jewelry construction. Gold is very malleable, meaning it can be hammered, bent, drawn, shaped or formed with relative ease compared to other metals. Gold is usually mixed with other metals called alloys to give it rigidity or change its color. GOLD ELECTROPLATE A final finish applied to non-gold jewelry equal to 7-millionths of an inch of fine gold or more. GOLD FILLED An item made of a base metal such as brass or copper, to which a sheet of gold is bonded by pressure or other means. To qualify as gold filled, an article of jewelry must have a layer of gold at least 1/20th, or 5% of the weight of the entire article. Items must be marked G.F. or 1/20th G.F. GOLD OVERLAY Has the same meaning as "gold filled". GOLD PLATED A thin layer of electroplated gold on base metal. All gold plated items are not plated with fine gold, some are only plated gold in color.

A marking of 14K H.G.E. or 18K H.G.E. (Heavy Gold Electroplate) for example would indicate that some amount of fine gold was actually used. GOLD TESTING The gold content or karat can be tested in a piece of jewelry by rubbing the item to be tested on a testing stone, similar to slate (slate is sometimes used) and using Hydrochloric acid, in different strengths to determine the gold content. GRAM A unit of weight measurement. There are 31.08 grams in a troy ounce (used to weigh metals), not to be confused with the 28 grams in an avoir ounce used to weigh foods etc. GREEN GOLD An alloy of gold that appears green in color. The green color of gold is achieved by mixing silver, zinc, and cadmium with gold. GUNMETAL An alloy of 90% copper and 10% tin. HALLMARK A manufacturers mark which indicates the content of the metal used to make an item. Examples are: Sterling ".925", 14 karat gold "14K" or .585", Platinum "PT950" or "PLAT". In other countries symbols such as an anchor, double eagle heads etc.may be used to denote metal content. HEAD A finding, typically the prong portion of a ring that holds a gemstone. HEART The name says it all. The shape of love. HAND MADE Created completely by hand. Not assembled from parts or made in a die or mold. HIGH POLISH A finish achieved by buffing the surface of metal so it shines brightly, often with a mirror-like finish. IDEAL CUT A set of proportions used when cutting a round Diamond, created by a man named Tolkowsky, believed by many yield the best balance of fire and brilliance. ILLUSION SETTING A setting used to make Diamonds appear larger than they are. IMITATION GEMS Any gems made of material other than the gemstone they are intended to mimic. INCLUSION A substance or imperfection within the physical composition of a gemstone. An inclusion is an identifying characteristic and may detract from a gemstones beauty or enhance it. While most inclusions in a Diamond would decrease its value. Inclusions in Amber enhance the gemstones value and in gemstones such as star sapphire, the inclusions which align naturally are actually the cause of the star phenomenon. INITIAL RING A ring with an initial. INLAY The process of setting stones into a channel or cut out so that they are flush with the surface of the metal. A stone is said to be inlaid when it is set in this manner INTAGLIO A design cut into the surface of a gemstone. The opposite of carving in relief, such as is common with Cameos. INTARSIA A design or mosaic composed of several types of gemstones inlaid in metal. INVISIBLE SETTING Gemstones set next to each other, usually in multiple rows, with no metal between them, giving the appearance that they are set invisibly (without prongs, beads or channels). The stones actually have tiny grooves sawn on the bottom of them so they interlock or are held in place with wires like a puzzle. IRIDESCENT An irregular patter of colors reflected from the surface of a gemstone. Common in Pearls caused by light reflecting and refracting off the many layers of nacre secreted over each other by a mollusk to create a pearl. IRRADIATED A gemstone treated with radiation for the purpose of changing the color of the gemstone. The change affects a Diamond crystal structure and is permanent. JET A black gemstone which is fossilized Coral. KARAT A unit of measure of gold content. Pure gold is 24 karat and one karat is equal to1/24 part pure gold in an alloy. (14kt. gold is 14 parts gold and 8 parts other metal.) LAPIDARY A gem cutter or polisher, usually well versed in finishing all types of gems other than Diamond. LASER FINISH A frosty glittery finish applied with a laser.

LASERING The use of a laser to remove inclusions from inside a gem by "drilling" or burning a fine hole to the depth of the inclusion. In some cases the inclusion is evaporated and in others it may be bleached out. LAVALIERE A pendant dangling from a necklace, typically 24" or more in length. LEVER BACK An earring finding with a snap back "lever" which can be affixed to an earring or have a loop at the bottom from which the earring will dangle LOCKET A charm or pendant that opens to hold one or more pictures. LOST WAX CASTING A method of manufacturing jewelry that duplicates a design made of wax in a metal such as gold or silver. A wax model is suspended in a canister that is then filled with a plaster like substance called an investment. When the investment hardens the wax is then burned out and lost, hence the name of the process. The cavity remaining in the investment is an exact duplicate of the original wax and is then filled with molten metal. When large quantities or intricate designs are being cast, the use of centrifugal force created by spinning the canisters in a drum will force the metal into the thinnest cavities allowing fine detail reproduction. When the molten gold cools and hardens the investment is broken and a duplicate of the wax remains cast in metal. LOUPE A hand held magnifying glass used by members of the jewelry industry to examine Diamonds and gemstones. Loupes are available in different levels of magnification. A ten power loupe, which magnifies an image ten times, is used for Diamond grading. LUSTER The shine or finish on the surface of a gemstone. GIA describes luster in the following categories: ADAMANTINE - Diamond like. GREASY, METALLIC, RESINOUS, VITREOUS or WAXY. MABE PEARL A type of cultured pearl that forms between the shell and tissue of a mollusk. When cut away from the shell it has an unfinished flat surface on the back that is polished. Mabe pearls are most commonly dome shaped like a cabochon. MARCASITE A steel gray, metallic like gemstone, flat on the bottom and faceted on top, commonly set in sterling silver jewelry. MARQUISE A gemstone shape pointed at both ends and oval shaped in the center. MATTE FINISH A dull finished surface created by sandblasting, stone finishing or brushing.. MATINEE A single strand of Pearls 22 to 23 inches long. MELEE Diamonds up to .20 carats in size. MOSAIC A design made from pieces of gemstones often using different gemstones to create a detail enhanced by each gemstones color. A mosaic may also be made from one gemstone such as opal. In the photo here, a gemstone which is a mosaic of several gemstones, was designed for use in jewelry. MOTHER OF PEARL The lining of a seashell that exhibits an iridescence.. MOUNTING The process of setting or attaching a gemstone. Also, a piece of jewelry, into which gemstones can be set. MOURNING JEWELRY Often made of gold or black materials such as jet. Sometimes with a glass frame in which the hair of a deceased loved one is placed. NATURAL Used to describe a gemstone which is Mined from the earth or a pearl that is created without the assistance of man. Lab created gems may be considered real or genuine because they are of the same chemical composition as their natural counterparts, they are however created by the hands of man rather than those of mother nature. NICKEL SILVER Not actually silver, also known as German Silver - made of mostly copper with nickel and zinc. OILING A form of gemstone enhancement used for centuries to improve the appearance and or color of a gemstone. Emeralds are frequently treated in this manner to hide inclusions. Unfortunately this is not a permanent treatment and can be removed by heating or intensive cleaning. OLD EUROPEAN CUT A round cutting style, the forerunner of the modern Brilliant Cut.

An Old European cut, round gemstone is rounder in outline than an Old Mine Cut, but a large culet, small table and high crown distinguish this cut from a modern cut. OLD MINE CUT Commonly called Old Miners, the Old Mine Cut has a large culet, a high crown, a small table and is somewhat square, with rounded corners, in outline. This cutting style emerged after the industrial revolution and yielded more brilliance and fire than was previously possible to achieve in Diamond cutting. The small table and large crown facets produce more dispersion of white light coming out of a Diamond, resulting in many colors of the rainbow being seen. OMEGA CLIP A type of earring back with a hinge that flips over a post to provide additional security. OVAL CUT A gemstone in the shape of an oval, faceted similar to a round brilliant cut. OXIDATION A film or coating that forms, like a skin on the exterior of metal resulting from a reaction with oxygen. Antiquing is a chemical process used to create an oxidized look. OPAQUE A solid or non-transparent gemstone such as Onyx or Jade. If some light passes through the stone it would be translucent, not opaque. OPERA LENGTH A single strand of pearls 30" to 35" in length. OXIDATION A chemical process which tarnishes the surface of a metal leaving a "patina" or film/finish. Copper oxidizes to green (verdis), Silver oxidizes to black, Gold dulls but doesn't really change color. Expose to air alone caused this process over time. PALLADIUM A member of the Platinum group. Palladium is lighter and less expensive than platinum and is mixed with yellow gold to create white gold. PASTE Glass which is used to imitate gemstones. Can be very expensive reproductions of fine jewelry, sometimes worn by the wealthy when traveling. PATINA A film or finish on a metal caused by oxidation. PAVÉ (Pronounced Pa Vay) A method of bead setting gemstones, usually Diamonds, next to each other so that an entire metal surface is covered, or paved, with gems. PEAR SHAPE A gemstone shape rounded at one end and pointed at the other. The facet arrangements are similar to those of the round brilliant cut. PENDANT A charm or other item worn on a chain that swings freely. PENNYWEIGHT A unit of weight equal to 1/20th of an ounce. DWT is the abbreviation for Pennyweight.. PERIOD JEWELRY Articles of jewelry that exemplify the design style of the times in which they were created. Examples of well know periods are Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco. PINK GOLD Also called rose gold because of its soft pink tones. Pink gold is made by adding enough copper to a gold alloy so it turns pink. PINK ICE Pink colored Cubic Zirconia, popularized by television shopping networks PLATINUM The noblest of the noble metals, Platinum is a white, hard and very dense metal. Platinum is usually alloyed with Iridium (90% Plat. 10% Iridium) and more recently Cobalt is being used in Platinum alloys. PLATINUM GROUP A category of five noble metals including Platinum, Palladium, Iridium, Rhodium, and Ruthenium PLUMB GOLD A term used to describe gold jewelry that contains the precise amount of gold in the alloy that the Karat mark indicates. In the past an item marked 14Kt could legally have been 13.5 karat and still considered 14K.

Today an item marked 14k must be at least 14 of 24 parts fine gold and is considered plumb gold. In some instances manufacturers have marked their jewelry 14KP meaning plumb, but inadvertently have confused the public that believed the 14KP mark meant gold plated. POINT A unit of weight equal to 1/100th of a carat. One hundred points equal one carat, fifty points equal a half carat and so on. A point is an extremely accurate unit of measure used to weigh gemstones. One point is equal to about 1/14,000 of an ounce. PRECIOUS METALS Gold, Silver, Platinum and the other members of the Platinum group. PRE-ENGAGEMENT RING An engagement style ring set with a very small diamond, given in lieu of an engagement ring or as a prelude to an engagement ring. Also called a promise ring. PRINCESS CUT A square cut, which is facetted similar to an Emerald Cut above the girdle and facetted like a Round Brilliant Cut below the girdle. PRINCESS LENGTH A single strand of pearls 18" in length. PROMISE RING A pre-engagement ring offered with the promise of ones heart. Typically similar to an engagement ring with a very small diamond, maybe 5 points in size. REFRACTION: When a single beam of light passes from one substance to another (air into water) it bends or changes direction. The angle or number of degrees which light bends can be measured and this is known as s substances Refractive Index (RI). Some substances can split light into two beams and are known as doubly refractive (DR) and will have two Refractive Indexes. If the light beam does not split a substance is Singly refractive (SR). REPOUSSE A raised design on metal created by punching or hammering the back of the metal. RETRO A style common in the 1940's exemplified by chunky styles, geometric designs and pink gold. RHINESTONES Glass gemstones with foil backings which enhance the reflective nature of the material. Rhinestones are generally glued, but may be set and are used extensively in costume and fashion jewelry as well as other accessories. RHODIUM A member of the platinum group of metals commonly used for plating gold, sterling and other metals. Rhodium is white and will make yellow gold white in appearance or can add a two-tone effect to a jewelry finish. Rhodium prevents tarnishing of sterling silver and adds a brighter, mirror like finish. ROPE LENGTH A single strand of pearls which is 40" in length. ROSE CUT A method of cutting a gemstone in which the bottom of the stone is flat and the top is faceted. The rose cut was phased out as more modern cutting techniques evolved during the industrial revolution. Rose cut gemstones give a jeweler or an appraiser clues as to the age of a piece of jewelry. SANDBLAST FINISH A dull matte looking finish applied to the surface of metal using sand and air to blast the surface and create the finish. SATIN FINISH A dull matte finish created with fine emery sand paper, sandblasting, wire brushing, stone finishing, or using acid. SAUTOIR A long necklace, usually about 40" with a pendant or ornament at the bottom. SCATTER PINS

A grouping of several small pins worn together SEMI-MOUNT A mounting, generally a ring, designed to hold a large or primary gemstone and smaller accent gemstones in which only the accent gemstones have already been set. SEMI-PRECIOUS A term that formerly was used to describe colored gemstones other than Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald. In fact many of the gemstones called semi-precious could be quite valuable, costing several thousands of dollars and more. For this reason the term is really not appropriate and its use has been discontinued by most people in the jewelry industry. SHANK The bottom of a ring set with gemstones into which you insert your finger . The shank is the part of the ring which is cut when sized and can be replaced when worn thin. SIGNET A ring with a flat surface used to engrave initials, insignias or family crests. SINGLE CUT A cutting style for a round gemstone with 18 facets: 8 crown, 8 pavilion, a table and a culet which is sometimes omitted. Single cut Diamonds are common in sizes up to about 10 points.. SIMULANT A material used to mimic or resemble another. Plastics are commonly used to simulate the look of genuine gemstones. SOLITAIRE Typically used to describe a ring or pendant set with a single gemstone. SPECIFIC GRAVITY A unit of measure which compares a materials weight with that of an equal volume of water with water being equal to one as a value. An item with a specific gravity of less than one would be lighter than water and Sapphire which has a specific gravity of about 4 would be 4 times heavier than water when compared in equal volumes. SPECTROSCOPE An instrument that measure the absorption of light in a material and is commonly used to identify gemstones. SPRING RING A ring shaped clasp with an internal spring which is drawn back to open and released to close. Spring rings are inexpensive clasps commonly used on lightweight neck chains and bracelets. STAMPING A jewelry manufacturing process used to make ultra light weight jewelry. Gold sheets not much heavier than thick paper or as thin as foil are stamped with dies to produce cookie like cut outs that are assembled into jewelry. Lightweight earrings and charms are often made in this manner. STERLING SILVER An alloy of 92.5 percent silver and other metal, usually copper used for strength. STICK PIN An ornamental item on a long rigid wire that is pinned through fabric. A clutch is fastened at the bottom to prevent loss. STUD EARRINGS Also called studs, small post style pierced earrings, sometimes set with gemstones. Diamond studs are probably the most popular type of Diamond earrings. STUDS Worn on men's tuxedo shirts instead of buttons. Also, a term used to describe stud earrings. SUITE A matched set of gemstones or jewelry. SYNTHETIC A man-made material. TAPERED BAGUETTE A baguette in which the two short edges are unequal in length causing the longer sides to taper in towards the short edge. Tapered baguettes are very popular as accents in the settings of engagement rings. TIE BAR A clip worn on a tie as an accessory, secured by an alligator clip or spring tension in the metal. Sometimes referred to as a tie clip. TIE TAC An ornament pinned through a tie and secured with a clutch. Some styles of tie tacs have a small piece of chain attached to the clutch with a tiny bar at the end to connect to a button hole in a shirt . TIFFANY SETTING A solitaire style setting, usually a ring, with a four or six prong head or setting. TOTAL WEIGHT The sum of the carat weight of all of the gemstones in a piece of jewelry. TRANSLUCENT A substance which allows light to pass through it but in neither opaque or transparent. Frosted glass is translucent. TRANSPARENT A substance which allows light to pass thru it completely allowing you to see thru it such as clear glass. TRILLION A triangular shaped gemstone. The three sides of the triangle typically have a slight bow in them as opposed to straight edges. TRIPLET A gemstone made of three pieces.

A common example is an Opal triplet which is made by placing a very thin layer of Opal between an Onyx or dark material background which provides rigidity and enhances the thin materials color and a covering layer of clear quartz or other gem material to protect the Opal from damage. TROY OUNCE A unit of measure used to weigh metals. There are 31.08 grams in a troy ounce, not to be confused with the 28 grams in an avoir ounce used to weigh food and other materials. TUBE SET Also known as a bezel setting. A gemstone that is set in a gold, tube like setting. VERMEIL An article of Sterling Silver jewelry that has been plated in 14Kt Gold. WEDDING SET A woman's wedding and engagement ring designed to be worn together. Sometimes the wedding ring is shaped so that it fits around the solitaire engagement ring, making the set look like a single piece. WEDDING TRIO A three piece wedding ring set consisting of his and her matching wedding rings and a matching engagement ring WHITE GOLD An alloy of gold made by mixing yellow gold with a combination of nickel, zinc, or palladium. ZIRCON A genuine and natural gemstone not to be confused with Cubic Zirconia which is a synthetic. Zircon is common in colorless, blue and pink or rose varieties. Colorless Zircon was used as a Diamond simulant until Cubic Zirconia came along and natural colorless Zircon has all but disappeared from the marketplace.. "A" TERMS Abalone A deposit made from inside a seashell, also called mother-of-pearl. Alexandrite Discovered in 1830 in Russia, and named after Czar Alexander II of who was then Crown Prince of Russia, alexandrite is a form of the mineral chrysoberyl noted for its color change in different forms of light. In sunlight, alexandrite looks blue-green, but in indoor (tungsten) light it the same stone changes to reddish-purple. Natural alexandrite with good color is very expensive today, as very little is still being mined, and there are many synthetics on the market. Synthetic color-change sapphire is also sometimes mistaken for alexandrite. Amethyst A form of quartz in shades of purple ranging from light lavender to deep, intense purple with subtle flashes of red. Amulet A pendant or charm that is worn for protective magical power. Art Deco A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, plastics (like celluloid or Bakelite) and chrome, unlike the curves of the previous era. Also known as the geometric style that succeeded Edwardian jewelry beginning in the 1910s through the mid-1920's. Colored stones were utilized more, and the opaque stones such as jade, onyx and coral were set in geometric shapes. Sleek animals such as Borzoi and Greyhound dogs were featured in some designs. It started out with relatively delicate designs, and progressed to a more bold and blocky style also called Art Moderne. Art Nouveau A style also known as "Victorian" or "Edwardian" consisting of fluid lines, floral and nature themes and natural colors. Also known for its flowing style with sinuous curves and naturalistic motifs that was popular from about 1895 to 1905. A common motif was a women's head with flowing hair. Arts and Crafts A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against the mass-produced, machine made designs of questionable aesthetic value common in the late Victorian era. The designers felt that their work should look handmade, and therefore they often left hammer marks on the piece. Although pieces were made of gold, silver was more commonly used to emphasize the craftsmanship of the piece rather than the intrinsic value of the components. Stones were commonly less expensive.

Cabochon stones such as moonstone, mother or pearl, agate, amber, and enamel work was also used. Aurora Borealis (abbreviated AB) A name for faceted glass beads that have an added iridescent coating. Also, a multi-color-producing light coating on part of beads or tops of rhinestones. "B" TERMS to top Baguette A gemstone, often a diamond, cut in a narrow rectangular shape. Small diamonds cut this way are often used as accents. A tapered baguette has one short end narrower than the opposite end, forming a trapezoid. Bakelite A synthetic patented in 1909, bakelite, also called catalin, was used in jewelry extensively during the U.S. Great Depression of the 1930's. Bakelite can be molded, lathe-carved, and one color can be inlaid into another, as in polka dots. The inlaid and carved pieces are especially popular with collectors today. It has a distinct scent when rubbed to warm, somewhat like formaldehyde. Watch for both outright repros, and later plastics from the last 20-30 years that might be mistaken for bakelite by the inexperienced. Baroque An irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead; also, an imitation pearl with an uneven or craggy shape and/or surface. Base metal, pot metal, white metal Any combination of alloys of non-precious metals. Belle Epoque Another name for the Edwardian period. Bezel Setting A method of setting gemstones in which the stone is held in the mounting by a narrow band of metal surrounding the girdle (outside perimeter) of the stone. Birthstone Birthstones have their roots in ancient astrology, and there have been many birthstone lists used over the years. The most common one today is based on a list first publicized by the U.S. jewelry industry in the 1950s. This list assign birthstones as follows: January - Garnet February - Amethyst March - Aquamarine April - Diamond May - Emerald June - Pearl or Moonstone July - Ruby August - Peridot September - Sapphire October - Opal November - Citrine or Topaz December - Turquoise or Zircon Bookchain A Victorian style of chain in which the links are rectangular, folded pieces of metal. Each link resembles a book. These book chains often had large lockets attached, and the whole piece was often elaborately engraved.

They were made in gold, gold-filled and sterling silver. Brass An alloy of copper and zinc which has a nice yellow color. Britannia or pewter A somewhat dull silver-colored alloy of tin, antimony, and copper. Bronze A brownish alloy of copper and tin that is not used much in costume jewelry because it is very dense and therefore heavy. "C" TERMS Cabochon A stone with a rounded surface, rather than with facets. This style is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such as opal, moonstone, jade and turquoise. Less expensive transparent stones such as amethyst and garnet, are also sometimes fashioned as cabochons. A garnet cabochon is also referred to as a carbuncle. Carat Abbreviated "ct." and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones. One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat. Small stones like .05, and .10ct are most often referred to by point designations. Note that karat with a "K" is a measure of the purity of a gold alloy. A one carat round diamond of average proportions is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. Note that this relationship of weight and size is different for each family of stones. For example ruby and sapphire are both heavier than diamond (technically, they have a higher specific gravity, so a 1 carat ruby or sapphire is smaller in size than a on carat diamond. Cameo A style of carving in which the design motif is left and the surrounding surface is cut away leaving the design in relief. Cameos in jewelry are often made of shell, although hard stone cameos such as sardonyx are more valuable. Cameos have been carved from ancient times, and ancient motifs such as the goddess Athena or a Baccante or follower of Bacchus were popular cameo subjects in Victorian times, through the 1930's. Cameos are still being made today in Italy. A cameo habille is one in which "jewelry" such as a miniature diamond pendant is actually attached to the carving. Cast Made by a centrifugal method of casting metal which becomes thick and hard. Celluloid One of the earliest plastics, celluloid is derived from cellulose, a natural plant fiber, and was first synthesized around 1870. Items commonly found today include hair combs, dresser articles. Celluloid items for wear were often set with pave rhinestones. Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed to moisture, so care should be taken in its use and storage. Channel set A gem setting technique in which a number of square or rectangular stones are set side by side in a grooved channel. Unlike most setting methods, the stones are not secured individually, so there is no metal visible between the stones. Chatelaine Said to be from the French for "Lady of the House", a chatelaine is a set of implements worn at the waist.

A chatelaine clip clip is fastened to the waist, and various items such as needle cases, pencil, scissors, dangle from chains attached to it. Chatelaines may be utilitarian or beautifully decorated and made from precious materials like silver. Choker A short, close fitting necklace; like a collar. Citrine A variety of quartz, citrine occurs in a color range ranging from light yellow to a brilliant orange that may be confused with fine imperial topaz. Coin silver A silver-colored metal that is a mixture of 80% silver and 20% copper. A lot of European silver pieces are coin silver and are marked 800, the number of parts out of 1000 that are silver. Coral Formed when small sea animals create living quarters, coral comes in colors ranging from vivid orange to palest pink. During the mid-Victorian large brooches of coral finely carved in high-relief floral sprays, or faces were popular. At the turn of the century, small natural pieces of branch coral or small cameos of coral were more popular. Crimp Bead Small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of threading material fasteners onto clasps. Crystal A glass stone or bead, usually with high lead content. "D" TERMS Decoration Etched: Very faintly carved surface decoration Lightly Carved: Faint carving Medium Carved: Average depth carving Deeply Carved: Deeper than average carving Heavily Carved: Extremely deeply carved Faceted: Carved with a regular pattern of facets Grooved: Routed out in a line Pierced: The material has been cut completely through Inlaid: A space is routed out of the material, and a contrasting material is fitted into that space. Bakelite polka dot bracelets are an excellent example of inlay technique. Diamond Diamonds, a form of crystalline carbon, are prized because they are exceptionally hard and durable, have high refractivity and brilliance, and because really fine diamonds are rare. Today diamonds are valued based on the "4 C's" of color, cut, clarity and carat size. Many diamond imitations have appeared over the years, with the most common today being the ubiquitous cubic zirconia which appears similar to a diamond to the uninitiated, but can be readily distinguished by a diamond tester which measures thermal inertia. Trained individuals, despite claims of cubic zirconia manufacturers, also have little trouble distinguishing a genuine diamond when it is examined under at least 10 power magnification. DiamanteA Faceted, glittery glass bead; rhinestone. Dog Collar A wide "choker" style necklace worn tight around the neck above the collarbone just like a dog's collar, this look was popular in Edwardian times, around the turn of the twentieth century.

This look was popularized by Queen Alexandra, who had a long graceful neck. Doublet A form of gemstone trickery that was devised to allow inexpensive materials to imitate the more valuable gemstones before modern synthetics were available. A doublet can take several forms but always involves a fake gemstone produced by gluing together two different materials to form an illusion. A very common one in Victorian times was the garnet and glass doublet. This involved a red garnet top, glued to a colored glass bottom. The refractive properties of a faceted stone are such that the red of the garnet only shows at odd angles, or if the stone is immersed in a special liquid with a high refractive index. Thus, for example, a green glass bottom with a garnet top will give the appearance of a fine emerald because the top is a natural gemstone with cut facets, and a few natural imperfections, and the bottom is bright green which reflects throughout the stone. The effect is hard to appreciate unless you've seen one. Duette A combination of two clips on a pin back. Duette was a registered design by Coro, but is now used generically for this design. "E" TERMS to top Edwardian Refers to the period during the reign of Edward VII of England (1901-1910), but the style has it's beginnings during the final years of Victoria's reign, and continued until shortly before World War I when the more geometric influences later to be called Art Deco began to make headway. In jewelry, this period was characterized by delicate filigree in white gold and platinum, with diamonds and pearls predominating, and colored stones used less frequently, producing a light, monochromatic look. Delicate bows, swags, and garland effects were used in necklaces and brooches. Both dog collars, and long fringed necklaces were also "in", being popularized by the graceful, long-necked Queen Alexandra. Electroplated Jewelry can be mechanically plated with gold in a variety of ways, including electroplated. Eventually, the gold plating wears away, but it depends on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is. Emerald A gemstone of the beryl family, fine emeralds are among the most valuable gemstones. Unlike most gemstones, flaws (called inclusions by gemologists )are quite common in emeralds, so they lower the value much less than with other precious stones such a diamonds. The most highly prized emeralds are mined in Columbia. A valuable emerald will be a bright, vividly colored green. Those with a slight blue cast to the bright green are actually the most valuable color. Many emeralds seen in jewelry are of relatively low quality. They are often dyed or oiled to improve the color and minimize flaws. If an emerald appears to be very fine, it may actually be a synthetic. There are several types of synthetic emeralds on the market, and some of them are challenging to identify, even for a trained gemologist. Engrave To decorate metal by gouging a design with graver's tools; embellishing metal or other material with patterns using a stamping tool or drill. This was a popular technique in mid-Victorian jewelry. The resulting depressions were often filled with colored enamel. Also refers to inscribing a dedication or monogram to identify a piece. Stamped pieces can be designed to imitate hand engraving. Under magnification, the design is much more sharp in a hand engraved piece, with subtle irregularities. Enamel In its simplest terms, all enamel is produced by fusing colored powdered glass to metal to produce a vitreous or glass-like, decorative surface. The enamel may be translucent with fancy engraving on the metal underneath, which produces guilloche (ghee-YOSH) enamel. Popular during during the mid-Victorian period was a solid black blue or white enamel used to fill engraved designs. Enamel is a decorative technique in which a glass "paste" is applied to the surface of a metal--normally bronze, copper or gold.

This glass composition adheres to the metal through fusion under very high temperatures. The color of the enamel and its degree of transparency depend on the metal oxides that exist in the glass and the temperature at which the glass melts and coheres to the surface: "Harder"=fused at higher temperatures=more durable, more translucent "Softer"=fused at lower temperatures=more fragile, more opaque European Cut The style of diamond cutting popular from approximately 1890 to the 1930s. Unlike the old mine cut preceding it, the European cut has a round girdle (perimeter) made possible by the introduction of the power bruiting machine (Bruiting is the term for shaping the girdle of a diamond, the first step in the cutting process). The European cut can be distinguished by the size of the table (the top, flat facet) in relation to the diameter of the stone. In a European cut, the table is smaller in relation to the diameter of the stone. Also, the culet (the bottom facet, is often large, often appearing to create a hole at the bottom of the diamond, when viewed from the top, since the large culet lets light escape instead of reflecting back to the viewer. Eyepin A wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads or beaded links together "F" TERMS to top Faceted Cut with many facets or planes. Faux Pronounced: fo (like go) Faux is a French word used to describe something made to resemble something else. The original French word means false, fake, imitation or artificial. Faux marble looks like marble. Faux bois looks like wood. Faux porphyry looks like stone. Fetish An amulet, pendant or charm often representing an animal or person. Filigree A technique used to produce fine intricate patterns in metal. Often used for metal beads, clasps, and bead caps. Findings All types of fasteners, and construction components used in jewelry making. Florentine Finish Finish has a brushed or striated appearance. Fob A short chain with a decorative seal or other device attached to the end. The fob and chain hung outside watch pocket, and could be used to pull the watch out of the pocket. Foilback A method of coating the back of a stone with silver, gold, or colored foil. This enhances the brilliancy of the stone, by reflecting back as much light as possible. It is commonly seen in costume jewelry. A foilbacked rhinestone whose foil has been damaged (often from water creeping in) does not sparkle anymore and is said to be a "dead" stone, lowering the value of the piece. Before, modern, highly reflective cuts were developed, even diamonds were foilbacked. French Jet Black glass fashioned to imitate real jet. Glass is heavier than real jet, and can feel cold to the touch compared to real jet.

Freshwater Pearl A pearl produced by a mollusk that inhabits freshwater, usually these pearls are shaped like an uneven grain of rice. There is also a variety called Tennessee fresh water pearls that taper like a long tooth, as in the illustrated 1940's brooch. "G" TERMS to top Garnet A group stones that share a similar chemical structure, the garnet family includes pyrope, almandine, and demantoid, among others. Almandine garnet are red varieties, with pyrope being the common Bohemian garnet found in much Victorian and turn of the century jewelry. Demantoid garnet is a much rarer bright green variety, first mined in the mid-nineteenth century. Demantoid has the highest dispersion of colored stones usually found on the market, which means it is very sparkly. Demantoid is generally found only relatively small stones. Gemstones Include diamond, brilliant, beryl, emerald chalcedony, agate, heliotrope; onyx, plasma; tourmaline, chrysolite; sapphire, ruby, synthetic ruby; spinel, spinelle; oriental topaz; turquoise, zircon, cubic zirconia; jacinth, hyacinth, carbuncle, amethyst; alexandrite, cat's eye, bloodstone, hematite, jasper, moonstone, sunstone. Genuine It is common to see the following words when describing costume jewelry: amethyst, diamond, garnet, emerald, ruby, sapphire. These words should not be interpreted to mean the precious stones with these names. The terms are used only to describe the color of the non-precious stones. If the genuine stone is meant, it is usually indicated with the word genuine in the description. This general rule also applies to words for metals, such as gold, silver, copper, and pewter. When used to describe costume jewelry, they mean gold-tone, pewter colored, etc. Gilt Gold plating. Gold Since ancient times, gold has been prized for its beauty, and purity since it does not oxidize or tarnish like most other metals. It has also been used as a store of value to build wealth and shield against hard times. Gold used in jewelry is almost always alloyed with other metals since gold in its pure form is very soft and malleable, and would not wear well by itself. Much gold jewelry from the 19th century and before is not marked. Tests must be done to determine if it is solid gold and to determine purity. The familiar Karat marking system used in the United States did not become popular until around 1890 or so. (Note that Karat with a "K" refers to gold purity, while Carat with a "C" refers to the weight of a gemstone, e.g. a one carat diamond set in a 14 karat gold ring.)

The karat number refers to the parts of pure gold per 24 in the alloy. So a 14K alloy is 14/24 parts pure gold, or about 58% gold. Other countries used a marking system well before the United States. For example, Britain has had a system of hallmarking in place for hundreds of years. It is also common in many European and other countries to mark gold with a three digit number indicating the parts per thousand of gold. Thus gold jewelry is often marked "750" for 750/1000 gold. (Equivalent to US 18K). In addition to many purities, alloyed gold also comes in many colors. Variations in the metals alloyed with the gold account for the ability to produce white, pink and even green gold, in addition to the familiar yellow gold. Pink gold was popular in late Victorian times, and again in the 1940s. White gold was very popular from 1900 through the 30's. Gold Filled Goldfilled, or gold-filled, abbreviated g.f. = lower in gold content than 10 KT, usually 1/20 or 1/12 KT.In this technique a sheet of gold is mechanically applied to the surface. Victorian pieces are likely to be unmarked, but later pieces are marked with the fineness of the gold layer, and the part by weight of the gold. For example a piece marked "1/10 12K G.F." is composed of at least 1/10 12K gold based on the weight of the finished piece. In the U.S., gold filled pieces must be at least 1/20 by weight to be classified as gold-filled. An older unmarked gold piece may often be identified by wear through to base metal, especially when viewing corners or edges under magnification. Look for a change to a darker, brassy colored material at these spots. Goldplate A layer of gold applied to base metal, usually by electroplating. This is usually a very thin layer, only a few microns, which is likely to wear much more quickly than gold-filled. Gold Tone Gold colored or electro-plated, not gold as in measurable in karats.

Gold Washed "Gold washed" describes products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold (less than .175 microns thick). This will wear away more quickly than gold plate, gold-filled, or gold electroplate. The gold is applied by either dipping or burnishing the metal, but it is not plated. "H" TERMS to top Hair Jewelry In the mid-19th century lockets of hair of loved ones were often preserved under glass in brooches. The hair was sometimes intricately curled or woven, and these pieces are often inscribed on the back to identify the donors. Later in the century, hair was woven into watch chains, bracelets, even earrings and given as tokens of affection. All forms of hair jewelry are very collectible today. "I" TERMS to top Intaglio A design carved down into a gemstone, unlike a cameo in which the design is raised from it's background, in relief. This technique was often used for seals, which made an impression in wax used to seal a letter or authenticate a document. It is also common on watch fobs, since the watch fob was originally a good place to carry a seal. Once seals fell out of use, the intaglio tended to face out to the viewer rather than down as on a seal. Some of the most commonly found Victorian intaglios are carved in Carnelian, an orange-brown variety of quartz. Iridium A metal and member of the platinum family, it is often alloyed with platinum to improve workability, thus you will find pieces marked something like "90% Plat. 10% Irrid" to indicate that the alloy is 90 % platinum and 10% iridium. "J" TERMS to top Jet A form of fossilized coal that became popular for mourning jewelry after Queen Victoria's husband, Albert died in 1861. Produced mainly in Whitby, England, it is a very lightweight substance. Black glass was often used to imitate jet which became a fashion item, not just for mourning. Jewelry Ornaments worn by people on the body [Fr]; trinket; fine jewelry; costume jewelry, junk jewelry; gem, gemstone, precious stone. Forms of jewelry: necklace, bracelet, anklet; earring; locket, pendant, charm bracelet; ring, pinky ring; carcanet, chain, chatelaine; broach, pin, lapel pin, torque. Jump Ring A small wire ring, not soldered shut, used to link elements of jewelry. "K" TERMS to top NO 'K' TERMS AT THIS TIME "L" TERMS to top Lapidary Cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones. Living Jewelry Jewelry materials derived from living organisms: pearl, cultured pearl, fresh-water pearl; mother of pearl; coral. Lost Wax Casting A model is made of wax and coated with clay. The wax is melted and poured out from the shape that can then be used to cast metal. Lucite Popular in the 1940's for ladies purses and jewelry, lucite is a clear, strong plastic that can be molded and carved. "M" TERMS Marquise An oval stone which is pointed at both ends, also called navette. Also, a stone cut in a boat shape, pointed at both ends, with rounded sides. Note that the correct pronunciation is "Mar-KEYS", not "Mar-KEY" which is commonly heard. Millefiori Means "thousand flowers" in Italian.

A method of creating glass or clay beads with intricate patterns using canes. Mine Cut A style of diamond cutting popular before 1890 or so, it features a cushion shaped outline, rather than the round outline of the modern cut and old European cuts, and has a different facet arrangement. Mabe' or Mobe' A half sphere or domed stone, usually a fake pearl. "N" TERMS Navette An oval stone which is pointed at both ends. Nickel silver A white metal mixture of copper, zinc, and nickel which contains no silver. "O" TERMS open-work A piece of jewelry that has open areas, see-through, similar to filigree cut. "P" TERMS Parure A suite of matching jewelry consisting of several pieces. Commonly, a set of three or more matching pieces; three of either earrings, bracelet, and necklace, or pin/brooch. In Victorian times, a complete parure consisted of two matching bracelets, necklace, earrings and a brooch. Note that before wristwatches became widely worn, it was quite common to wear two matching bracelets. Paste A term for imitation gemstones. Fine jewelry was often imitated in finely made copies to protect the wearer from theft, and these were referred to as "paste". Patina As a general term, patina refers to the change in an object's surface resulting from natural aging. (Patina preservation is the reason to avoid all but very superficial cleaning of old objects.) In bronze sculpture, patina specifically refers to the surface of the bronze itself often altered by the sculptor with acid or the application of other chemicals. Pave' (pah-VAY) very tightly set stones, as in a pavement; a gem setting technique in which the stones are set low and very closely spaced, so that the surface appears to be paved with gemstones. Most commonly seen with diamonds, but may be used with any stone. Pearl A natural gemstone formed when a oyster is irritated by a substance that gets into its shell. If the irritation is a naturally occurring grain of sand, it is an Oriental pearl. If it is produced by purposefully inserting a mother-of-pearl bead, a cultured pearl is formed.

A pearl that forms attached to the shell is a blister pearl, while a pearl that forms a half dome is a mabe (pronounced mah-bay) pearl. Pearls that are irregularly shaped rather than round are referred to as baroque. Perfumed Beads Recipes are available to make beads that release a scent when warmed by the body. Pewter Pewter items are described and marked as such if they contain at least 90% tin. Also, a somewhat dull silver-colored alloy of tin, antimony, and copper. Pierced-Work Same as open work. Plique-a-jour A form of cloisonné in which the enamel in the cells has no backing, producing a translucent effect. This technique was used to good effect by Rene' Lalique and others during the Art Nouveau period to depict dragonfly wings and other translucent objects. Pot metal Pot metal is a term used to cover many, many different mixtures which do not have gold, silver, or platinum as a major component. pronged Stones set with individual prongs holding them in place. "R" TERMS to top REGARD The Victorians loved romantic symbols, and rings or brooches set with a Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and a Diamond so that the first letter of each gemstone spelled out "Regard" were given as a token of affection in early Victorian times. rhinestone A glass stone, facetted to imitate a diamond. In German, it is called Strass, after the man who popularized it. Rhodium A metal that is part of the platinum family. Silver, gold, and even base metals were often Rhodium plated during the 30's and 40's to give them the white, shiny look associated with platinum. Genuine rhodium in raw state is liquid. Although in the platinum family of metals, it is not the same as platinum which is a solid precious metal. Rhodium-plating A thin plating of rhodium, which is one of the members of the platinum family, applied over either sterling or other alloy to give a bright, shiny, longlasting silver-colored finish to a piece. Retro A recent designation for the period in the forties when when large scale, stylized geometric forms were the rage.

Pink gold, set with colored stones, sometimes in floral forms was common. Ruby A precious gemstone, and a member of the corundum family, rubies are always, by definition, red, but be aware that many other red gemstones and imitations might be assumed to be a ruby. Fine rubies of good color can be more valuable than diamonds, but the first synthetic ruby was created in the 1890's and became quite popular in jewelry. Synthetic rubies must be distinguished from natural by sophisticated testing by trained gemologists. "S" TERMS to top Safety Catch Prior to 1900 or so, brooches had a simple "C" catch with no locking mechanism, and the pin often extended out beyond the "C" far enough to weave back into clothing for security. At the turn of the century several "safety catches" were invented and came into common used for better jewelry, so a piece that exhibits a safety catch was made in the twentieth century. (Consider the possibility, however, that an old catch was replaced at some point, and look for evidence of this.) Sapphire A gemstone of the corundum family, although blue is the color most commonly associated with sapphires, they come in a range of colors from white to orange to green to pink. In fact, if a corundum gemstone is red, it is referred to as a ruby, but any other color, including the light pinkish "rubies" in inexpensive jewelry are properly referred to as sapphires. Sapphires were first synthesized in the 1920's, so it takes an expert to determine if a sapphire is natural. Natural sapphires are sometimes found that exhibit a star effect. These can be quite valuable if the star is centered and well-defined, but in 1967 the synthetic Linde Star Sapphire hit the market, and many star sapphires found today are these synthetics. Sautoir (Soh-TWAH) a long rope style necklace, often with a tassel or pendant at the end, these were popularized in the Edwardian era because Edward's Queen Alexandra often wore them. Seed Pearl Refers to a very small round pearl or a very small imitation pearl, or f.pearl. These were strung on horsehair and used in intricately woven jewelry during the early-mid Victorian period. In the late Victorian period accents set into gold jewelry. During the Edwardian period, they were sometimes woven into long fringed necklaces called sautoirs. SilverTone Silver plated or coated, not sterling silver. Split Ring Small base metal finding resembling a key-ring. Sterling Silver 925 parts silver, legal standard. 800 or less amount of silver is known as silver parts, as marked on the jewelry, not sterling silver. "T" TERMS to top Taxco (TAHKS' coh) The small town in Mexico where William Spratling, an American set up his workshop in 1929. Many other silversmiths eventually set up shop here making Taxco the center of silversmithing in Mexico. Much silver is made in Taxco to this day, but the earlier silver , up to about 1970 is considered collectible. In 1979 the government began to require silversmiths to stamp a registration mark consisting of two letters and several numbers, and this mark should be found on nearly on newer pieces. Tiffany Setting The high pronged setting most common today for large stones such as a diamond solitaire, this setting was introduced by Tiffany & Co. in 1886. Tortoise shell A popular material for 19th century jewelry and haircombs, tortoiseshell was banned and is no longer used for these items. There are very close plastic imitations of tortoiseshell. One technique to differentiate tortoise from its imitators is to touch the surface with a hot pinpoint. Tortoise will give off a smell like burning hair, while plastic will emit and acrid, chemical odor. Troy Weight Gold and silver are measured in Troy weight, a system that includes pennyweights, ounces and pounds. The ounces and pounds do not equal the Avordupois or customary U.S. system that other common goods are measured in. Gold is also commonly measured in metric grams. A pennyweight (abbreviated dwt.) is equal to 1.5552 grams. 24 grains = 1 pennyweight = 1.5552 grams 20 pennyweight = 1 troy ounce = 31.1035 grams 12 ounces = 1 pound troy = 373.24 grams. Turquoise Turquoise is a semi-precious gemstone found in desert regions throughout the world. All the cultures use it--Mongolian, Chinese, Native Australian, Persian & Southwestern Native American. It is considered a source of good fortune and beauty. If you see brown or grey streaks in turquoise, they are caused bythe matrix, or mother stone, from which the turquoise is mined. Interesting matrix patterns are considered to add beauty to the stone. Only Persian turquoise is usually without apparent matrix. Modern turquoise "stones" that appear very shiny and absolutely flawless are actually manufactured: Pulverized turquoise is reconstituted with a plastic binding medium then cut & shaped as though it were natural stone. This material is generally avoided by collectors. Different colors of turquoise--varying from sky blue to nearly green occur in untreated turquoise, since it is quite porous. Touching the stone leaves oils on it which alters the color of the turquoise over many years. Collectors tend to value these color nuances as the patina of time. "V" TERMS Vermeil (Vehr-MAY) Silver with gold plating. Vulcanite A hard, moldable dark brown or black early plastic sometimes erroneously called "gutta percha". This material was used for memorial pieces in the mid-Victorian period. Victorian The designation given to the period from approximately 1837 when Victoria became Queen of England until 1901 when she died. This long period is divided into early (approx. 1840-1860), mid (approx. 1860 - 1880) and late (approx. 1880-1900) since it covers a wide span of time, and a number of distinctive design trends. This period was preceded by the Georgian period, and succeeded by the Edwardian period after Victoria died in 1901, and her son Edward became king